Poľka zostala kvôli pandémii uväznená na ostrove. Čaká na koniec korony, býva v stane a loví homáre
Michaela Mäsiarová
Michaela Mäsiarová

Poľka zostala kvôli pandémii uväznená na ostrove. Čaká na koniec korony, býva v stane a loví homáre

Poľská blogerka má na Instagrame takmer pol milióna sledovateľov najmä pre jej vášeň objavovať krajiny, ako sú Bangladéš či Sýria.

Mladá Poľka svoj pobyt na ostrove dokumentuje aj na svojom Instagrame. — Foto: Instagram/evazubeck

SOKORTA 26. mája - Koronavírus jej prekazil návrat domov. Teraz mladá cestovateľka kempuje niekde uprostred ostrova, ako sama tvrdí, „v paralelnom vesmíre“. Poľská blogerka a dokumentaristka Eva Zu Becková zostala dobrovoľne uväznená na jemenskom ostrove Sokorta, známom tiež ako Galapágy Indického oceánu.

Eva aktuálne spáva v stane, loví homáre a ticho čaká, kým pandémia pominie. Informáciu o jej netradičnej ceste priniesol portál CNN.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

COVID-19 IS ONLY ONE OF MANY STORIES IN THE WORLD TODAY. Yes, it’s a huge story which might define our generation. But all the other stories - of war and conflict - continue to be, buried deep under Coronavirus headlines. Let me tell you one of them. Salem works making juice in a small café in Socotra. He used to live in war-ravaged capital Sana’a, studying to become a nurse. But he stopped his studies when the opportunity to work in Socotra came up. “Working in a hospital in Yemen during the war, I would be making $100 per month and exposing myself to disease, with no health insurance to protect me.” It’s heart-breaking logic, but it’s understandable. He misses Sana’a, but living here, his income is higher, he’s safe and “It’s better than sleeping on the street and having nothing to eat,” he says. His is by no means the only story I’ve heard. One calm evening in the mountains of Socotra, my host confided in me. “The war took away our lives. We cannot do anything. All the people in Yemen, their lives stopped when the war started.” His voice was shaking. I’m reminded of that Yemeni taxi driver I rode with in NYC: “I’m only here for work. Living here is not real life. Real life was back in Yemen,” he said. Today, the media may be gripped by another story, but for the people in Yemen the daily struggles haven’t stopped. Over there, COVID-19 is just another crisis on top of a mountain of challenges ranging from cholera to hunger to political instability, and beyond. Yemen is gripped by the world’s worst man-made humanitarian crisis. Over 24 million Yemenis are in need of immediate humanitarian assistance. I can’t even begin to fathom this. As someone who has enjoyed the privilege of peace and opportunity all my life, hearing these stories first-hand, I cannot possibly put myself in their shoes. So all I ask is, let’s be aware. Aware that our struggle is not the only struggle. Aware of our privilege. Aware that we may not know the full story. And let’s be open to hearing out that story. We have much to be grateful for. If you’d like to support the people of Yemen, please donate to @monarelief, www.patreon.com/monarelief Photo by @rpljuscec

Príspevok, ktorý zdieľa Eva zu Beck ♡ Adventure Travel (@evazubeck),

Pobyt sa poriadne predĺžil

Bloggerka nie je žiaden cestovateľský nováčik. V rámci sociálnych sietí je známa najmä vďaka svojej vášni preskúmavať krajiny, ako sú Pakistan, Bangladéš, či Sýria. Na jemenský ostrov Eva dorazila ešte 11. marca, kde sa spoločne s ďalšími 40 medzinárodnými turistami zúčastnila vôbec prvého miestneho maratónu a na ostrove mala pobudnúť necelé dva týždne.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

My thoughts are with Pakistan today ? Stay strong, my friends ?

Príspevok, ktorý zdieľa Eva zu Beck ♡ Adventure Travel (@evazubeck),

O štyri dni po príchode, však tamojšie úrady oznámili, že sa chystajú uzatvárať hranice a turistom doporučili, aby sa čo najrýchlejšie vrátili domov. „Zobudili nás uprostred noci v stanoch a povedali nám, že sa máme čo najrýchlejšie dostať na letisko,“ opisuje situáciu mladá blogerka. Eva tak čelila obrovskej dileme. Opustiť ostrov a vystaviť sa riziku nákazy po ceste do Európy, alebo radšej zostať tam, kde je, a počkať?

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

WHAT’S THE SITUATION WITH COVID-19 ON SOCOTRA ISLAND? This is DAY 21 on the island, and as we enter a new month, I want to update you on the local situation. First and foremost, according to the local health authorities, there is no Coronavirus on Socotra Island. All the foreigners here were examined by a doctor, as a safety precaution, in the first week of our stay. Everyone is healthy. Flights haven’t been arriving for 21 days. Domestic passenger boats have been on hold for around 2 weeks. Cargo boats have been asked to quarantine for several days on the sea before coming in to port, but a regular stream of supplies continues to come in for the local population of 60k people. It seems like the authorities are doing a good job at isolating the island. I used to call this our “desert island quarantine” but I’ve now realized that was a mistake, because there is no quarantine on Socotra. People here are lucky to be able to continue as normal. For many of my friends around the world, the quarantine means being confined to the walls of their urban home, and that’s a much stricter reality than the one we are living. Our Socotri friends have been deeply welcoming, and of course some have offered to find me a local husband so I can live here forever. ?? I don’t think I’m quite there yet! I should also add, I’m not the only foreigner here. There are around 15 in total - all have been here as long as, or longer than me. Some stayed willingly and others didn’t have a choice - they missed the last commercial flight off the island. Some of us have become friends and are staying in the remote eastern corner of Socotra, where the Arabian Sea meets the Indian Ocean. The closest shop and antenna (where I can get internet, like now) are two hours away by motorbike. In between hiking and writing, I’m working on a couple of local community projects which I’d love to bring to life if I stay here a bit longer, and if things continue to be this calm here. One is related to raising local awareness about the plastic problem across the island, and the other - to preserving the local heritage. That’s my reality for a while to come. What’s yours? Sending you my love! ??

Príspevok, ktorý zdieľa Eva zu Beck ♡ Adventure Travel (@evazubeck),

Bolo to znamenie?

Napokon to však, ako sama tvrdí, nebolo nijako mimoriadne dlhé premýšľanie. Ostrov som si zamilovala. Bola som tu už minulý rok a prisahala som, že sa sem niekedy vrátim na dlhšiu dobu. Bolo to znamenie, rozjíma 29-ročná Eva.

S potrebným povolením od tamojších úradov napokon na ostrove zostala spolu s ďalšími štyrmi turistami, zatiaľ čo zvyšok posádky vrátane jej kanadského priateľa odletel posledným lietadlom do Káhiry. „Keď som videla, ako odchádzajú, mala som motýliky v bruchu. Ale cítila som, že to bolo správne rozhodnutie,“ vraví cestovateľka.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

2.5 MONTHS ON THE ISLAND: ❤️2️⃣❤️ COVID-19 UPDATE. Thank you to everyone who has been so concerned about my stay on the island. ? #Respect_Socotra, You have given me a new perspective and I apologize if I sent the wrong message before. Things are different from what they were before. My 1st month here was a “honeymoon period”, and the island felt very much sealed from COVID-19 due to restricted traffic. But, times change. Currently, many cases are being reported in mainland Yemen, and with some boat traffic to the island, not all of it properly quarantined (as it seems), locals have concerns. People (not tourists) have continued to arrive on Socotra. People are on alert, and wary that there is a possibility that the virus will eventually make it here, whether that’s tomorrow or in a year from now. Before, it felt safe to travel to different places around the island, but that’s no longer the case. Over the last 3 weeks, I’ve been spending the majority of my time in a family home in one village and intend to keep it this way. According to health professionals, the island is free of COVID-19, and while people want to trust them, it’s hard to know for sure without proper testing facilities. So in the village, Shibhan, they’re starting to take measures, just in case. Getting ready for the future. My host is trying to change the greeting habits in the village (from a handshake and a kiss to a wave), which isn’t easy but as he says, “we’ve got to start somewhere”. We started sewing face masks. From the perspective of time, given the knowledge I have now about the spread and nature of the virus, would I have made the decision to come here in the first place? No. My intention was never to encourage active travel to remote places during a pandemic. Rather, I wanted to share the beauty of a place I was already in, a place that’s little-known and needs to be protected. Remote places and populations are at a higher risk from the virus - in part because of limited healthcare infrastructure. Leaving? Hopefully. It’s a work in progress. Please donate to @monarelief, a local NGO working to bring basic necessities to people in Yemen: patreon.com/monarelief ❤

Príspevok, ktorý zdieľa Eva zu Beck ♡ Adventure Travel (@evazubeck),

Čakal ju úplne iný život

S uzavretím hraníc naskočila Eva na úplne iné tempo, než na aké bola doteraz zvyknutá. „Život na Sokorte je pomalý. Väčšinu dňa si čítam, píšem denník, alebo chodím na túry do hôr,“ popisuje svoj bežný deň. Namiesto hotela uprednostnila radšej kempovanie, prípadne si prenajíma izby od miestnych obyvateľov.

Do hlavného mesta Hadibu sa vracia len kvôli internetu, práčovni a elektrine, aby si dostatočne nabila všetky potrebné zariadenia: „Hadibu je chaotické a hlučné. Preferujem radšej prírodu a život v dedinských komunitách, kde ma vo svojich domovoch radi prijali.“

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

BEING AN ADULT IS A MASSIVE SOCIAL SCAM. Right, dramatic headline out of the way. ? Let’s go. When I was a kid, I looked at the adults around me - my parents, teachers, caretakers - convinced that they had deciphered the mystery of life, found purpose and connected all the dots. After all, they were adults. “One day, when I’m an adult, I will also have my life magically in order”, I thought. But as a teenager, I began to see cracks in my understanding of the adults around me. It turned out that many of them struggled. Married couples sought divorces. High-paid managers disliked their jobs. Parents of three gave little thought to how to raise their children. Everyone wasted time and money and energy, just like me, a teenager. That’s not how I had imagined adulthood. Aren’t adults meant to cruise through life with a calm, unrelenting confidence? As it turns out - no, they’re not. That’s just something we came to believe as kids, when adults acted as our guides to the world. The bubble bursts sometime in our twenties, and suddenly we feel inadequate and confused, because surely, by now, we should have our life in order? But the reality is, nobody has their life fully in order, all the time. For me, being an adult doesn’t mean that you’ve deciphered the mysteries of life. For me, being an adult means, quite simply, taking responsibility for the choices you make in life. And if that’s the expectation we shared with our kids more often, yes, maybe the internet would lose its “adulting” memes, but maybe adulting itself wouldn’t be so dramatic and confusing. On the note of celebrating childhood, here are 3 great NGOs helping kids achieve their full potential: Afghanistan / Iraq ➡️ @freetorunngo Bangladesh ➡️ @mcfconnect Pakistan ➡️ @care_foundation P.S. a couple of days ago, I posted this pic - unblurred - on my stories. I very rarely post photos of kids, and upon reflection, I should have blurred that photo to protect their privacy, like here.

Príspevok, ktorý zdieľa Eva zu Beck ♡ Adventure Travel (@evazubeck),

Sokorta je bez koronavírusu

Na Sokorte nevošli do platnosti žiadne koronavírusové opatrenia, keďže ostrov neeviduje žiaden prípad nákazy. Sociálny odstup a karanténa sú pre miestnych absolútne neznáme pojmy. „Môžeme navštevovať priateľov, aj sa voľne pohybovať. Akoby sme boli v paralelnom vesmíre,“ opisuje situáciu na Sokorte mladá blogerka.

Dokedy Eva na ostrove pobudne, to zatiaľ nevie. No ako sama tvrdí, ak by jej zajtra ponúkli let domov, prijala by ho. Dôvod je jednoduchý. Rodina a blízki, ktorých nevidela už celé mesiace.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

WAITING OUT THE PANDEMIC ON A DESERT ISLAND... MY TRAVEL UPDATE. Socotra Island is one of the most isolated places on Earth. I boarded the last plane here, unaware that hours later, the world would become paralysed. Last night, after several days offline, it turned out that ALL flights to and from the island have been cancelled indefinitely. With 5 hours warning, we were told one last plane would come to pick people up and fly them to Cairo. The choice was to 1️⃣ stay on this remote island in Yemen indefinitely, OR 2️⃣ travel “home” across 4 countries into the heart of the pandemic, and self-quarantine somewhere in Europe. There is no Coronavirus in Socotra and since nobody new has arrived in the last week (the island has been shut off to new arrivals since I came), it seems like a much safer place to be than any European city, or international airport. So, I decided to stay. I am officially waiting out the pandemic on an isolated desert island. With no plans to leave. Nobody knows when flights will resume - it could be a month or more. I know I am in a very privileged situation right now. I have no dependents, no apartment with rent to pay, no office to go to. I’m very lucky to be able to make this call. The saddest part is that @fearlessandfar had to leave on that last plane, so I’m here only with a couple of friends from Italy. These are my travel news. You can expect to see lots of video updates from this epic island in the coming weeks! Over to you: if you were in my shoes, would you stay or would you go? Photo by @fearlessandfar

A post shared by Eva zu Beck ♡ Adventure Travel (@evazubeck) on

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

RAMADAN KAREEM It’s 10am here in Hadibo, the cramped and sweltering capital of Socotra. On any given day, you’ll find its streets packed with cars and motorbikes and people and goats, haggling, chatting, hanging out and watching the world go by. This morning, only the goats remain. I’ve never seen the town as empty as it is today, on the first day of the Holy Month of Ramadan. This is a time of fasting - from sunrise to sunset. A time for prayer, contemplation, good deeds and charity, among all Muslims around the world. For me, personally, it’s the 3rd Ramadan I’m spending in a Muslim-majority country, and my 2nd (!) on Socotra. This year, I was going to participate in the fast to join so many of my friends around the world in their special event. And for me, it’s not for religious reasons at all - it’s more to do with building empathy and compassion. I am trying to understand what it’s like to go through a prolonged purification process, and stay away not only from food and water, but bad thoughts, words, and habits, too. But with my ongoing heatstroke and migraines (more on Stories), I’m going to catch a bit of a late start ?? Looking forward to it, soon enough. Of course, this year’s Ramadan is going to be very different for many people - prayers and iftars shared with extended family and friends simply aren’t possible. And if you’re feeling the impact of this - just know that I feel you, too. If you’re a regular observer, how is your Ramadan going to be different this year? And if you don’t observe Ramadan - have you ever fasted before? Photo by @rpljuscec

Príspevok, ktorý zdieľa Eva zu Beck ♡ Adventure Travel (@evazubeck),

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